Buenos Aires - First week

Argentina has had a very stormy history. The Military Junta which launched the country into the "Dirty War", the economic crisis created by the Falklands War and most recently their economic crises of the 1990's and last year, have created a fatalism in the local people. Notwithstanding this, the "Portenos" (residents of Buenos Aires) are a fun loving people and very friendly. The current President is Lady Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner. She and her husband, Nestor Kichner the former President in 2003, have recently been acquitted of fraud and embezzlement charges....however newspaper reports indicate their personal wealth has increased by 105+ per cent in the past year....funny....our investments didn't do that well !!

After a 2 hour flight from Mendoza, arrived at our B and B, (The Tango) in the Belgrano area of Buenos Aires on December 27th.  Buenos Aires is a city of 14 million people (40 million in the country).  Very similar in appearance to a large, older European City, mainly due to its architecture. There are many wide tree lined boulevards, numerous parks, plazas and outdoor cafes. Our host, Valeria spoke English, but her husband Jorge does not.  In addition to their bed and breakfast, they own a small apartment some 100 meters down the street and this is where we stayed for 3 nights.  Although it was a little dated; it was comfortable and we had a nice little balcony, where we enjoyed wine before going out for dinner.  Valeria provided us with a map and took the time to tell us about places we must visit in addition to telling us about the good restaurants nearby and especially about the two best Heladeria's (ice cream shops) in the area. Ice cream is so popular here, they even deliver it on motorcycles that have "refrigerated" boxes on the back. We are told that Argentina has the best ice cream in the world and one must always be seen eating ice cream. Just to let you know....we have been seen eating helados!!

 The Belgrano  area has a major shopping area along Avenue Cabildo...you would never think the economy is suffering here....the Portenos are big shoppers....lots of shoe, purse and clothing stores. On Sundays the local square hosts a flea market, made up of locals selling jewelery, yerba mate cups, clothing, toys, etc.  We were fortunate to take this in on our first evening in B.A.

Yerba mate is the dried chopped leaf of a plant; relative to the common holly. The mate cup is a hollowed out gourd and often time, they are decorated with ornate silver. Not only is mate a drink, it is an elaborate ritual, shared among family, friends and coworkers. Drinkers sip the liquid from the gourd through a bombilla, a silver straw with a bulbous filter at its lower end that prevents the yerba leaves from entering the tube. Haven't tried it yet, but you can be assured we will.  Will report later.

Doesn't appear that anyone does their laundry here...simply brought in to the local "lavanderia" and they do your laundry for you. Similar to the other places we have visited in Central/South America and in Asia. White t-shirts are never the same!!!

We have been taking the subway system to get around. It's called the Subte and they have 8 lines. Very efficient, very clean and inexpensive.... but very hot down there. Vendors are a common sight on the subway. They enter a car and yell out what they are selling....whether that be gum, socks, newspapers, etc.  Socks seem to be a big seller...funny, the weather is so nice here, we haven't seen anyone wearing socks!!

Visited the Plaza de Mayo 1977. Walking around the plaza we noticed some writing on the concrete...it said " Victimas del Terrismo de Estada"...loosely translated to " Victims of State Terrorism".  This refers to some 30,000 people who "disappeared" during the Military Junta of General Orge Videla  who was in power from 1976 to 1983. Grandmothers of the victims (Madres de la Plaza de Mayo), who wear white scarves on their heads, still march here every Thursday afternoon to ensure people do not forget the atrocities committed by the Military Dictatorship. A law was recently enacted requiring mandatory DNA testing of children believed to have been kidnapped and taken from women who were victims of state terrorism. They believe there are about 400 of these children who are slowly being identified over time. 

Also viewed the Casa Rosada (Pink House) which house the Presidents' office. From the balcony we could almost see the ghost of Eva Peron speaking to her people. Visited the Catedral Metropolitana which contains the tomb of General Jose de San Martin - constantly guarded by two soldiers. In the downtown area, they also have wonderful Pedestrian walkways, Avenue Florida being the biggest and busiest.

Moved into our apartment on December 30th, which is located in the San Telmo area of Buenos Aires. We will be here for the month of January. Have found everything we need in this area...many restaurants, lavaderias (laundry), art galleries, numerous antique shops, grocery stores and a gym. We joined the gym for the month we are here...this was a wonderful surprise and is only 1 1/2 blocks down the street.

The Dakar is presently taking place in Chile and Argentina and started January 1st. We went to the Sociedad Rural Argentina to view some of the displays and some of the vehicles. While walking through the grounds, we ran across the 2 drivers of the sole Canadian team that is entered. They are driving a prototype car/truck and are number 375 is anyone is interested in watching the Dakar. The same night while eating dinner in a Parilla (meat restaurant) in our neighbourhood, the 4 gentleman sitting next to us were speaking French and were wearing their Dakar team shirts....so needless to say, Claire struck up a conversation with them in French.  They will be racing a quad and are number 264. We also went to watch the ceremonial start on January 1st, which started at the Obelisk on one of the major streets of B.A. which was closed for this event.  We watched the motorcycles starting off...quite interesting to watch. Papers reported some 200,000 spectators downtown to watch the start and probably around 800,000 around the City watching the race. It really gets started outside of B.A. on January 2nd, 2010.
http://www.dakar.com/us/DAKAR/2010/live.html

Holidays are very big in South America as we saw in Mendoza over Christmas and here for New Years. On January 30th, we walked to the downtown area (only about a 20 minute walk from our apartment) and we gathered that it was the last business day of work prior to year end.  Office workers all over the downtown were throwing shredded papers out of their windows, similar to a ticker tape parade that would take place in New York. The streets were covered with small bits of paper....almost like snow!!  Also noticed that the Portenos were walking around with presents...appears that either their employers or perhaps friends exchange presents for New Years. On New Years Eve  and New Years Day, most stores and restaurants were closed. We spent a quiet New Years Eve in our apartment. Around midnight the fireworks started and went on till 2 a.m. People were still partying the next morning, and the streets were littered with bottles everywhere.  They really celebrate the holidays until Jan. 6th to remember all religions. In a mall, we saw families having their pictures taken with "The Three Kings". We guess, something like having your picture taken with Santa Claus!!

We have also signed up for some Spanish classes which will run for 4 consecutive days in the afternoon. These classes are somewhat different from the norm. We will be taking buses, going to stores, restaurants, etc. to learn how to converse, rather than classroom study. Mind you, with Robin's spanish, we have been getting along fine to date.

Visited the famous Recoleta Cemetery where the wealthy of B.A. are buried. This is like wandering through a small neighbourhood of marble statues and sarcophogi. We even saw the vault where the Duarte family is buried, including Eva (Duarte) Peron.  This cemetery is the most unique one we have ever seen...spent about one hour just walking around. Will try to post some pictures of the more elaborate statues and mausoleums.

Many markets (ferias) take place on weekends and we have already managed to take in several of these..Recoleta, San Telmo and Belgrano.  All very interesting and different. Some even have spontaneous tango shows, and of course you are expected to make a small donation. This has even happened in some of the restaurants that we have been in. Tango is a national passion here....but all of you that know Robin well, will know that we will definitely not be taking lessons....can't teach those Carribean boys how to dance...it's in their blood.

SPANISH FOOD
- Pastel de la Granja - Farm Pie (butternut squash and chicken cooked in a clay casserole)
- Lechuga - Lettuce
- Cebolla - Onion
- Zanahoria - Carrot