First few days in Santiago, Chile

December 7th, 2009

Well folks, after a 10.5 hour flight from Toronto, arrived in Santiago and found 25 degree  weather (centigrade for those foreign folks) awaiting us, and not a cloud in the sky. Before we landed, we had to sit through a video produced by the Department of Agriculture regarding what you could and couldn't bring into the country and then the stewardesses proceeded to spray the inside of the plane....strange, don't really know what it was, but they told us it wasn't harmful.  Hopefully we won't come home with two heads or foreign objects growing out of us!
It is definitely spring here; all the trees are flowering with the most beautiful purple flowers of the Jacaranda tree. Even the roses are out. Santiago is  a city of 3.5 million. Driving in from the airport, we drove along the main road "O'Higgins Avenue". Not sure if we were back in Ireland, but remembered from history lessons, that Bernardo O'Higgins was the President at independence in the 1800's (an illegitimate son of an Irishman and a  Chilean mother).  The elections are taking place soon and a new President will be named. President can only run for one term and Michelle Bachelet, may run after another 4 years. She presently heads a coalition government (things are running smoothly....guess Canada just can't live with a coalition!!) . The Mapocho river runs right through Santiago and along the majority of it, the City has built wonderful parks with all sorts of water features and art work throughout. Some areas even have exercise equipment. The art work along this area, along with the various pedestrian bridges makes you wonder why Calgarians are up in arms about a couple of pedestrian bridges. A city must spend money on art; it what makes a large City great.

       After arriving at our lovely guesthouse (only 8 rooms) we ventured off to discover the Bario of Providencia, where we are staying. There are 32 various barios (neighbourhoods) in Santiago. We are in a mid/upscale area of the city, lovely homes mixed with commercial and professional buildings. Great restaurants and shops only a few blocks away. Everytime we are away from Calgary in either Europe or South America, we are amazed how insular we are. Why can't we get over the NIMBY attitude and allow mixed neighborhoods? First night out, we both had sea bass. Felt a little guilty as we know that sea bass in an endangered species, but how can you come to Chile and not have Chilean sea bass. They serve fillets here and not the thick steak types that we have back in Canada.  Delicious!! Doesn't get dark till around 9 p.m.  Cools off somewhat in the evening, but just enough to be comfortable.
   We were warned that on our second day here, most businesses, banks, shops would be closed as it was the feast of the Immaculate Conception. As this is a Catholic country, everything does close down. Even the major highway from Valparaiso ( a port town 120 km. away) was closed for two days, as people walk a pilgrimage from Valparaiso to Santiago up to "Cerro San Cristobal".  At the top of the hill is a statue of the Virgen de la Immaculada Concepcion.  Robin and I decided to venture to this area and we walked with tens of  thousands of Chileans up to the mount; which took us over an hour and a half. When we reached the top, there was a mass in progress being conducted by 6 - 8 priests, a few bishops and a cardinal, along with a youth choir. Quite a special moment.  Must tell you however, that there was quite a "celebratory" atmosphere going on at the top of the hill and the plaza at the base of the hill with tents set up as restaurants and various merchants selling hats, toys, household goods and of course Christian wares.
   Walking back to our guesthouse we found ourselves in the Bella Vista barrio, known for its restaurants and art and crafts. Lots of craftsmen selling Lapis Lazuli, which is mined in the north of Chile. Also lots of copper and malachite, mined in the south. Beautiful craftmanship. A band played in front of the restaurant and one of the percussion instruments, was a young man holding several strings of llama toe nails...some sort of castonets.
   Next day, we ventured downtown to "The Plaza des Armas" , the heart of Santiago. In the centre is a fountain celebrating their "libertador" Simon Bolivar. Lots of people around...watching our wallets!! Nice to sit down for a "bebida" and do our own people watching.  Walked around, then up another cerro
..Santa Lucia, a beautifully landscaped park, right in the middle of downtown. Steep stone stairs lead you to the top to the Torre Mirador where Charles Darwin in 1833 proclaimed the view from here to be "certainly most striking". They were indeed as not too much smog; so we were able to see some of the far away mountains.  Another peculiarity of the downtown are coffee shops called "cafes con piernas or coffee with legs" that cater to business men. The baristas (young girls only) are wearing very short skirts and we did read that some wear bikinis; although we never saw this. Robin did go in.....as they say, never too old to look. Took the metro back to our guesthouse and felt very safe. This system has 5 lines, is very clean and runs efficiently; all below ground. Santiago is a very clean city. They are getting ready to celebrate their bi-centennial next year.
We are off on December 10th  by local bus to Valparaiso a port city for about 4 days.

Spanish Words
Barrio - Neighbourhood
Cerro = Hill
Cortado = Latte
Bebida =Drink