Valparaiso, Chile

We spent 4 days in Valparaiso and we were pleasantly surprised at this port City, which is a Unesco World Heritage Site. Took a bus from Santiago to Valparaiso, which took about  2 hours. Buses are very comfortable and clean.  Our B and B, The Yellow House, was delightful. Our hosts Martin and Lissette were everything and more you could ask for. Martin is Australian and Lissette is a Chilean from Vina del Mar. When we arrived, Lissette spent close to one hour with us, going over security issues, places of interest, ways of getting around, places to eat and things to do. In addition to their bed and breakfast, they are also part owners with 2 other B and B's in a tour company that caters only to very small groups (8 maximum). Also staying at the guest house was a French family (Mom, Dad and 2 boys, aged 2 and 4). They were on a one year trip around the world. Christine and Gav....could you imagine taking a one year trip with Caitriona? The guesthouse has a long communal table where breakfast is served and lively conversations take place. We liked this set up as it made it easy to get to know fellow travellers and hear their stories. It give the place a family type ambiance.

Valparaiso is a seaport which has been occupied in one form or another for over 500 years. It's population of about 300 thousand live on the steep slopes surrounding the harbour in various homes, that in some cases are over 200 years old. Many of the old homes are made of wood, however the to preserve these facades from natural deterioration, they have claded them in corragated steel taken from shipping containers. The old part of the City is the area protected by Unesco standards; which means that owners cannot modify the exteriors of these buildings. This makes for a very eclectic and architecturally diverse City. To help the residents get up and down these steep hills, there are 15 ascensors (otherwise known as funiculars in Europe). Originally there were 45.  Many of the them are over 100 years old and in the original condition, with the exception that today they are powered by electric motors. Still very efficient.  The streets of the city are sometimes very perilous to walk on, as the cement, brick, etc. is all broken up. Graffiti all over the buildings, but a lot of it is very artistic (view some of our pictures).   We are told that the money that Unesco gave to the City to improve streets, buildings etc. was absconded by the previous Mayor, who recently ran in the elections as a Senator....not sure if he made it in or not. Valparaiso also boasts the first stock market in South America and the oldest Spanish newspaper in the world.

Exploring the various barrios (areas) is a lot of fun, but at all times, we were conscious of the need to be extra careful with our belongings. Claire was told not to bring a purse and if we had to bring a backpack, Robin was to carry it on his chest. There is a lot of petty crime in a port City. However, we were fortunate that we had no incidents. Took a ride in a launch (small boat) around the harbour, to get a feel of the City from the water. Our guide only spoke Spanish...think we understood about 10% of what he said. Still enjoyed it.  Walked around the main part of the City, which they refer to as "plan"; which probably means flat.

Next day, took a tour of the William Cole winery in the Casablanca wine area ( we were the only 2, so we had a very individualized tour and tasting). Then onto Isla Negra, which is the home of Pablo Neruda, a famous Chilean poet; winner of the Nobel Prize for literature in 1971. This is a beach town where he had one of his 3 homes, and said to be his favorite. The home is a rambling bungalow, which he kept adding on to to store his many collections (glass bottles, liquor bottles, cards, seashells, huge ships figureheads, masks, etc.) These collections were amassed while he was Consul representing Chile in many places(Burma, Ceylon, Java, Phillipines, Madrid, Buenos Aires ). Neruda is idealized throughout South America for his poetry, which depicts the lives of the poorer classes.  Then onto the small fishing village of Quintay where we went for a long walk through a forest of eucalyptus and pine which led to the ocean. Very rocky, but great to be by the ocean. Went to the village itself, and watched the local fishermen bring in their catch. Spent some time watching  Jose Caruso, one of the fisherman, fillet fish (He told me he could's sing!!).  This man was amazing to watch, he could filet a fish in a matter of minutes. They also save the eggs from the fish and scramble them.  Had our first pisco sour here in Chile. From our time in Peru two years ago, the Peruvians say they invented pisco sour's and of course the Chileans say they did.  Well, believe it or not, the matter went to the International Court in the Hague and the ruling favored the Peruvians!! Pisco sour is made from a form of Brandy and it has lemon juice, egg white and angostura bitters....very quenching.

Next day, we did an all day walking tour with our young Chilean guide Gonzalo, who has a strong British accent, as he grew up in Oxford, England. His mother was forced to go into exile during the Pinochet rule. They were helped to get out of Valparaiso to Santiago by the Catholic Church and  jumped the British Embassy wall. His mother had previously been tortured as was his father, who died. This was due to the fact that his grandfather, who was also killed, was the head of the Democratic movement in Chile. Gonzalo came back to Chile about 15 years ago with his mother; to find himself he says. Needless to say, he was a wonderful guide for the day. Not only did he take us to various neighbourhoods , but he was able to give us his perspective on Valparaiso, Chile, politics, education, etc.  We visited the local fish market where fisherman bring in their catch every morning. They head out in small boats around 11 p.m. and fish far out into the ocean. They sell their catch to locals as well as restaurants (see our pictures...lots of different fish). Then took the Metro (can you believe a city this size has a metro) to Vina del Mar, which is the next City. The metro also serves 2 other towns in the area. Vina is where the wealthy of Santiago come to spend the summer. You really can't tell where Valparaiso ends and Vina starts. Walked through wonderful gardens and saw the President's summer home.

The following day, we took a 2 hour walk along the bicentennial walkway, which skirts the ocean front. Then continued into town. The election in Argentina was held on Sunday and most restaurants were closed. We were able to find a wonderful all day breakfast place, similar to some we have in Calgary. As many of you know, Robin's favorite meal out is breakfast; so needless to say, he was a happy camper.  That evening, we went to a restaurant we had to been to previously, but alas it was closed. So, we went to the local store and bought bread, cheese and pate and enjoyed this back at our hostal. Yes folks, we were smart enough to buy a bottle of wine the day before the election....a real french picnic!! Speaking of the election, the office of the President was not filled and a runoff between the two top candidates is to take place in January. Next morning we were back to Santiago by bus, where we rented a car to spend some time in the Colchagua wine valley....do you think there is a theme with our travels to date!!! Tasting wine, drinking wine, visiting wineries and wine areas!!!

We are now in the Colchagua Valley and our next posting will probably be from Mendoza in Argentina.
View our pictures which we have now uploaded for Santiago and Valparaiso. Stay warm those of you in Canada.


Spanish foods and other "stuff"
Prebre - a type of bruschetta - yummy!! always given free before a meal
Mote Con Huesillos  - a Chilean (non alcholic) drink made of dried peaches(rehydrated), peach juice and cracked wheat the bottom. They drink it when it is very hot. Very tasty.
Chorrillana Marinera - A Chilean dish - ours was seafood. So, it's a pile of fresh seafood, carmelized onions and eggs piled on top of french fries. Very tasty and very filling.
Congrio - This is conger eel....I know might freak some of you out, but it is a course meat, similar to shark and we enjoyed this as well.
Rianata -  Another delicious Chilean fish.
Palta - Avocado ( most salads here comprised of tomatoes, avocados, lettuce and corn niblets)